Written by Leah Dolan, CNN

That includes the nice, the dangerous and the ugly, ‘Look of the Week’ is a daily sequence devoted to unpacking probably the most talked about outfit of the final seven days.

The three phrases that greatest describe Hunter Schafer’s Vainness Honest Oscars social gathering look? Much less is extra.

Wearing a bias-cut white silk skirt, a single ivory-colored feather and — crucially — nothing else, Schafer was certain to boost a number of eyebrows. Google searches for the actor and mannequin skyrocketed on Sunday evening as her look hit social media. On Twitter, photos of Schafer instantly acquired tens of hundreds of likes, whereas her personal Instagram publish has now been preferred greater than 2 million occasions.

However extra than simply making a headline-grabbing second, Schafer’s ensemble was clearly thought-about. Recent off the Fall-Winter 2023 runway, the look debuted earlier this month at vogue home Ann Demeulemeester’s present in Paris. It was designed by Ludovic de Saint Sernin, the label’s artistic director since December.

Superstar vogue works greatest when there is a story behind a glance. For instance, the believable Edie Sedgwick reference in Kendall Jenner’s Bottega Veneta tights, or Paul Mescal winking at conventional masculinity in a plain white tank prime.

For his first Ann Demeulemeester assortment, De Saint Sernin was impressed by “fashion-making as an genuine act of self-involvement.” It was a love letter — nearly actually — to the Belgian label’s founder, with imagery of “authorship and autobiography” baked into the garments (Sernin referred to as his feather bandeaus “quills” within the present notes).

Hunter Schafer's barely-there Oscars after party look was more poetic than it first seemed.

Hunter Schafer’s barely-there Oscars after social gathering look was extra poetic than it first appeared. Credit score: Karwai Tang/WireImage/Getty Photos

These concepts of self-expression, self-love and self-definition took on new which means when worn by Schafer. As a trans girl whose ascent to fame was inextricably linked to her gender id — her massive break was enjoying trans teenager Jules in HBO’s “Euphoria” — Schafer’s physique is subjected to fixed scrutiny on-line. The remark sections on her Instagram posts typically descend into open boards, the place customers really feel entitled (and seemingly compelled) to ask intimate questions in regards to the trans expertise or problem Schafer’s womanhood.

Fittingly, there’s a lengthy lineage of gender-defying sentiments stitched into Schafer’s outfit. Based in 1985 by Ann Demeulemeester and her husband Patrick Robyn, the model boasts a protracted legacy of gender-non-conforming vogue.

“I used to be within the pressure between masculine and female, but in addition the stress between masculine and female inside one particular person,” Demeulemeester instructed Vogue forward of a retrospective exhibition of her work in Florence, Italy, final yr. “That’s what makes each particular person actually attention-grabbing to me as a result of everyone is exclusive.”
Schafer's outfit debuted on the Paris runway earlier this month.

Schafer’s outfit debuted on the Paris runway earlier this month. Credit score: Kristy Sparow/Getty Photos

In his newest co-ed assortment, De Saint Sernin — who’s famend within the trade for his eponymous, gender-fluid label — introduced his androgynous world view to Ann Demeulemeester with fitted, romantic menswear silhouettes and sensual materials for all (assume skin-tight mesh tops, leather-based, and open shirts constituted of a translucent organza materials).

A quill strapped throughout her chest, Schafer tell us she continues to be writing her narrative — and defining herself on her personal phrases. There’s a complete story contained in these two clothes. As De Saint Sernin stated within the present notes: “Thirty-six appears to be like, every one a heartfelt sentence.”

The highly effective ensemble might change into one in all Legislation Roach’s final superstar styling credit. Roach introduced over social media on Tuesday that he could be retiring from the trade after 14 years of making conversation-driving appears to be like for the likes of Zendaya, Bella Hadid, Anya Taylor-Pleasure, Ariana Grande and Megan Thee Stallion.

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